Thalai Malai Sanjeeva Raya Perumal.

 

Thalaimalai Sanjeeva Raya Perumal Temple: A Trekker's Guide

 

During the pandemic, many trekking places were closed, including some of my favorites. Now that things have opened up, I'm excited to share my recent adventure to Thalaimalai Sanjeeva Raya Perumal Temple. This temple is located in the Thalaimalai Reserve Forest, situated between the Namakkal and Musiri highway. To help you plan your own trek, I've organized this blog post into several sections:

 

1. Location

 

The temple is perched on the highest peak of the Thalaimalai Reserve Forest. You can reach it by taking a right turn from either Erumaipatti or Varagur village if you're coming from Namakkal. From Musiri, turn right at Manalmedu or go directly through Thumbalam village. Namakkal is about an hour's drive away (33 km), while Musiri is a shorter 45-minute drive (23 km). If you're looking for accommodations, Namakkal offers more options as it's the district headquarters.

 

2. Legends and History

 

The temple was built by the Nayaks of Madurai, who ruled from the 15th to the 17th centuries. One legend tells of a shepherd who noticed one of his cows always returned late. He followed her and discovered she was offering milk to a young boy on the hill. The shepherd reported this to the Nayak king, who then had a dream where the Lord instructed him to build a temple at the site.

 

Another legend connects the hill to the Ramayana. It's believed that when Hanuman carried the Sanjeevini Hill, the scent of its medicinal herbs cured Lakshmanan. In his joy, Lakshmanan threw a piece of the hill, and it landed in seven different places, including Thalaimalai. Even today, the hill is thought to be filled with healing herbs, and the air itself is said to have curative properties.

 

There's also a small pond called Ramar Sunai, located halfway up the hill, that never dries. This water is still used for temple rituals. The temple's name, Thalaimalai, comes from its location on a peak shaped like a crown ("Thalai" means "head" in Tamil).

 

3. Trekking Routes

 

There are three routes to the temple, starting from Erumaipatti, Sanjeevipuram, Neeliampatti, Sevvindipatti, Vadavathur, Kavakkarampatti, and Muttanjatti villages. The first two routes meet at a midway point known as Junction Point, while the third route joins a little further up, just before Ramar Sunai. From there, it's mostly a flat walk to the temple, with only 550 steps at the end.

 

The Neeliampatti route is the most popular due to its gradual incline, ample parking, refreshment shops, toilets, a well-maintained road from Namakkal, and several temples at the base.

 

4. Temples at the Foothills

 

Before starting your trek from Neeliampatti, you'll find the Sri Lakshminarayana Perumal, Garudan Statue, Anjaneyar, and Krishna temples. If you're unable to make the climb, you can offer your prayers at the Perumal temple here. It's also customary to break a coconut for a safe journey.

 

5. Trekking, Midway Temple, and Pond

 

I began my solo trek on a cool December Saturday in 2023 at 6:30 am. The temple is open throughout Purattasi (mid-September to mid-October) and only on Saturdays from 6:00 am in other months (except for festival days). The trek starts to the left of the Lakshminarayana Perumal temple.

 

The path is rocky and uneven, with an elevation gain of 540 metres (about 1700 feet). The midway temple, at 680 metres, marks the end of the steepest part. From there, it's a relatively easy walk with a final 80-metre climb (550 steps) to the main temple.  Till the junction point, you get markings on the stones progressing with a maximum of 6260.  I am at loss to understand what it indicates.

 

The trail winds through a valley between two hills. You'll pass a Ganapathy statue and some lamp posts, signaling the start of the dense forest. The junction point, where two routes converge, offers a welcome rest and an information board.  Further up the third route also converge and then goes to Ramar Sunai.

This point contains a pond called Rama Sunari which never gets dried up throughout the year, a Ganapathy Temple, Saptha Kannimar Temple and Karuppasamy Temple.  The water needs of the main temple is fulfilled by this Ramar Sunai.

 

6. Cauvery River View Point

 

Between the midway point and the main temple, there's a spot called the Cauvery View Point. It offers a glimpse of the Cauvery River, appearing as a small white thread amidst the greenery. The view is particularly beautiful in December.

 

7. Main Temple

 

After a kilometre of flat walking, you'll need to climb the crown shaped hill and the main temple is just perched on its crown.  The steps are not straight but circumventing the crown from left to right.   The steps are also small not sufficient enough to keep a foot straight. Just at the turning point of the steps from left to right you get a Hanuman temple.   In front of the hanuman temple there is a foot print lord carved out in a circular stone.   Further above just below the main temple, there is a Krishna temple with Garuda.   After visiting Krishna temple, finally you reach the main temple.   The unique beauty of the temple is except the temple and three side path of just below 3 feet width, virtually there is no space for anything else.  It took less than two hours to reach the temple and an hour to get down. 

Normally people circumambulate the temples which is not possible here.  In spite of it taking the risk, many people used to walk on the 4” basement and holding the loft of the temple do pradakshinam (circling the temple from left to right).  In 2017 during the Purattasi month, one auto driver had fallen to his death while doing this risky ritual.   The government has banned this practice once and for all by fencing the left side opening of the temple small wall.   The view from this place is mighty.   You can see hills below like dinosaur back ridges, the right side hill while climbing like a toy mountain, behind the bluish kolli hills like table top mountain of South Africa, the three different routes midway temple and pond, lovely Cauvery far away before Greenish Mountain turning gradually into blue horizon.  

The inside temple is having two sanctum sanctorum one Perumal with Boodevi and Sridevi and Srinivasa Perumal with Sathyabama and Rukmini.   There is another separate shrine housing Alamelu Mangai and Mahalakshmi.  Being at the hill top the cool breeze, calm and spiritual surroundings makes you feel a sense of bliss.   The temples at the top are manned by three priests who invariably comes early to open the temple at 6.30 a.m.   One of the priests is aged 71 years and still coming every week without fail.    

8. Festival times

The entire month of Purattasi is festival time only.   During this month the temple is opened every day.   Lakhs of people used to visit during this month and during this time the entire trekking routes are manned by police personnel and petty shops spring up in the entire way for the devotees.   

Once in three year a special festival is celebrated for the Lord Indira who is holding the Vajra as weapon.    

Other than these all Saturdays are special and the temple is open.  

I have given the photos and videos with sub titles. 

 

The Anjaneyar Statue in the entrance at Base hill starting point

Krishnar temple at the entrance

Garudan Statue at the entrance

The first temple at the entry of forest

The view from the top most point

Me after two hours of leisurely climbing at the entrance of hill top temple

The Lakshmi Devi at the top

The main moolavar at the hill top

The garudazhwar temple at the top

The possible small temple entrance just fits the top space

Information about the temple name

Krishnar temple between Anjaneyar temple and Thalai Malai Sanjeeva Raya Perumal temple

The small steps at the top just enough for half a feet

Padam carved in stone in front of Anjaneyar Temple

The view just outside the Anjaneyar Temple at the top

View from other side of anjaneyar temple

The holy tree at the beginning of final 550 steps where with prayers the cloth is tied

View of final 550 steps

The cauvery View point enroute to main temple from Ramar Sunai

Camera can not do justice but for naked eyes cauvery as a white line is visible

The temple just perched at the cliff top

Gajalakshmi at the entrance of Saptha Kannimar temple

Saptha kannimar at the midpoint

Ganesha Temple abetting the general purpose hall at the mid point

The stone hall as resting point 

Karuppanna swamy temple statues

Vamana Avatara painting

The information in the midpoint temple

The third route joining with first two routes before the mid way temple.

Second Route bit steep

First route through which I climbed

The first two routes are visible from the top

marking in the steps going upto 6250 not sure it indicates what ?

The first visible view after an hour 

markings 

The other side of the hill in the valley to your right whose height you have to climb

last of the lamp posts before forest

The first set of idols when you start

The route is not paved even like this when you climb further

Reserved forest notice board

Second Anjaneyar idol in the foot hill