Agasthyakoodam Trekking in Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary
Agasthyakoodam Trekking in the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary
Introduction: One of the toughest trekking trails in South India is the Agasthyakoodam trekking within the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary. It covers a distance of 37 kms of trekking in three days and two nights. The Agasthyakoodam peak is having the statue of Sage Agasthiyar worshipped by Kani Tribes in this area. The peak is 1868 metres in height.
1. Where is Agasthyakoodam?
Agasthyakoodam is one of the peaks in Agasyamalai Biosphere Reserve at a height of 1868 metres or 6129 feet. It is the second highest peak in Kerala after Anaimudi. https://www.keralatourism.org/destination/agasthyakoodam-western-ghats/245 Agasthyamalai Biosphere Reserve is having three wild life sanctuaries viz. Shendurney, Peppara and Neyyar. Agasthyakoodam is spread in Peppara Wild life sanctuary. It is 60 kms from Thiruvananthapuram with a journey time of two and half hour maximum.
2. History of Agasthyakoodam.
Agasthyakoodam is a revered place for Kani tribes one of the oldest tribal people living this area. Their deity is Agasthyar who is mentioned in Mahabharata and Ramayana. He brought kalari art of martial arts to the world. He is also supposed to have started Cauvery from his Kamandalam. He stopped the rise of Vindhya mountain range. Even now the Kani tribal people worship the sage as their deity and pongala festival is celebrated at the pongala parai midway to Agasthyakoodam peak. This is the source of perennial Thamirabharani River. The place is having more than 2000 medicinal plants used in Ayurveda and flowers together. Three rivers Karamanayar, Vazhapaithiyar, Attayar are emanating from this area which we will be crossing on the first day of the trek. One of the heavens for birdwatchers, butterflies with wild animals like elephants and tigers are there in the area.
3. How to book the Trekking pass for Agasthyakoodam?
You can get a seat in Kaun Banega Crorepati (KBC) more easily than a pass to Agasthyakoodam trekking. I was trying since three years and finally on the third attempt on the last batch I got a pass. Trekking is allowed only for a period of 45 days and during this year 2025 it was just for 34 days. During the first week of January every year the announcement to the online booking is advertised by the Kerala Forest Department. Earlier they were opening the booking for entire period now they restrict to 10 days batches just a week before the actual commencement of batches. For February 11th to 22nd, booking was opened on 3rd February at 11.00 a.m. You can book individually or as a group but with a maximum of 100 persons per day. This again divided into 75 pax for online and 25 pax for offline. Offline tickets are available a day before trekking for which you have to stand in queue at PTP Nagar Forest Office Thiruvananthapuram. After high court intervention, from the year 2019 women are allowed to trek that was not possible earlier. Availability of passes for online being limited in number, passes are sold out within few minutes of opening like IRCTC train tickets. If you are bit late in the last batch, “Agasthyakoodam booking for this year is over and sold out, see you next year” message will flash before you. The cost of pass is Rs.2700 for this year 2025, out of which Rs.2200 for trekking pass and Rs.500 for wild life conservation. You can book in https://www.serviceoneline.gov.in . For other times individual group trekking is possible for which enquiries can be made at Bonacaud Picket Station or PTP office Thiruvananthapuram, with a minimum number of 10 persons and cost will definitely be more per head. Further starting from March till monsoon sets in it is impossible to trek with temperature ranging above 37 C. During monsoon trek is closed.
4. How to reach base camp through various options.
The base camp is situated at Bonacaud Picket Station, the entry point to the forest. The name itself is given from a French word “Bon Accord” a “good agreement” by British in 1850 while establishing the tea estates for which people from Tamilnadu were brought in. The haunted 25G Bungalow is still existing in a dilapidated status. There is no staying option at Bonacaud which is a small village.
There are three buses, two from Thiruvananthapuram Thampanoor Bus stand at 5.00 am and 4.10 pm. and one from East Fort Bus Stand just opposite to famous Anantha Padmanabhan Temple, at 8.40 am. Though timings are there uncertainty always prevails. By taxis, your own cars and two wheeler you can cover in less than 2 hours up to the entry point of trek. Unfortunately the reporting time at Bonacaud Picket Station is 7.00 a.m. and the first batch of 20 persons leaving at quarter to 10.00 am after the formalities. The last batch will be leaving almost quarter to 12 noon from Bonacaud Picket Station. The earlier you report the chances of getting in to the first batch is better.
In case of public transport the bus stops at Bonacaud Post Office from where you have to walk 2.6 kms in a road fit for jeeps and SUVs. Normal cars needs your skill in driving. This distance is over and above the regular trek from Bonacaud Picket Station to Agasthyakoodam peak.
The other option is go to Vithura a town from where Bonacaud is 17 kms and 40 minutes journey. At Vithura which is well connected by buses for every 15 minutes from Thiruvananthapuram, the staying options are definitely cheaper. The entry gate check post to Bonacaud is opened for public from morning 6.00 am only. From Vithura you can even hire an auto to and fro for Rs.1500 up to the entry point of Bonacaud Picket Station. Another advantage is you can have a good breakfast and lunch pack for the first day which is at normal rate. If you are going in two or three persons then this is the cheapest and sure option to report in time. Mobile signals are there near the entry point hence you can call the auto well in advance to coincide with your arrival time while returning from the trek on last day.
In case if the bus is cancelled at Thiruvananthapuram just catch bus for Vithura from Stand number 5 at Thampanoor bus stand and from there catch an auto.
5. Formalities at Bonacaud Picket Station.
You have to have your entry pass hard copy print out, self-declaration format available along with entry pass and a registered medical practitioners certificate of fitness for above 18 years of age and for above 14 years a certificate from the parents of the trekker. You also have to take the original identity document which you had given at the time of online booking, for cross verification.
It is better to take the certificate from a medical practitioner than a private medical practitioner. Being a government organisation, they first see the round seal of the medical practitioner which is for Government doctors. To convince the entry level checker that private medical practitioner won’t be having a round seal is difficult. It is not impossible but you will be left to wait with tension till the senior forest officer comes and ratifies that a registered number of the doctor is sufficient to the checkers. After verification, you have to wait for calling your name to the batches and then you have to show the back pack for thorough checking. You will be given with the verified and stamped entry pass with instructions to give it to the office on arrive at Athirumala base camp. This is the last formality before the trek commences.
Plastic is strictly prohibited including wrappers of chocolates and biscuits etc. Better to carry an aluminium water bottle a plain one with sipper facility. With so much weight on your back during first day, every time opening and closing the regular bottles with be a tough job.
Breakfast is available at the entry point and also lunch to pack for the first day. It is costly due to infrastructure woes with cost of breakfast at Rs.125 and lunch at Rs.175. Puttu Kadalacurry, Upma and Poori are the three breakfast options and lunch with boiled rice, a curry and pickle. Dal is separately given in a hard plastic container for which you have to pay Rs.10 extra and on returning the item the amount will be reimbursed. Similarly if any plastic items are there Rs.100 will be kept as deposit and you have to show the items on return for getting back the deposit. The parking fees is also separately collected for your vehicle.
No disposable juice bottles and water bottles like Bisleri, Aquafina and Kinley are permitted.
6. Itinerary for completing two days one night or three days two nights.
The two days one night option is for those who are not having sufficient time but good health to spend for trekking as many are coming from faraway places. The total distance is correctly mentioned as 18.5 kms Agasthyakoodam but many a times wrongly construed it as the distance to first day base camp at Athirumala. The first day you can reach Athirumala Base camp (1060 metres elevation) at a distance of 14 kms and overnight stay. Second day start early before 8.00 am and reach Agasthyakoodam peak at 1868 metres and return before 1.00 pm. After lunch at 2.00 pm if you leave then you can reach Bonacaud Picket Station by evening. By catching the last bus at Bonacaud Post Office you can return to Thiruvananthapuram by night.
The second option which is less strenuous and comfortable to enjoy flora and fauna is to stay on the first day at Athirumala base camp. Second day go to Agasthyakoodam and comeback leisurely after spending time up to noon at the peak have lunch and rest for the day. Third day you can leave early and before peak sun you can reach comfortably the Bonacaud Picket Station. For lunch you can be at Thiruvananthapuram. A good lunch option is available at Vithura town.
Having retired with no leave and time concern, I preferred the second option to enjoy leisurely with sufficient rest in between.
7. Flora and fauna.
This range of forest trek involves all the types of terrain. Thick forest with tree canopy, river/stream crossings, open grass land, high gradient hill climbing and fully rock terrain without any shades.
On first day, you will be crossing three rivers, Karamanayar, Vazhapaithiyar and Attayar. Many small forest streams in between as well. The trek starts from 450 metres at Bonacaud Picket Station to Athirumala base camp at 1060 metres. The distance is approximately 14 kms and elevation of 600 metres as per my Samsung Health Walking app. There are plenty of water sources without pollution by human habitation till Attayar anti elephant poaching camp. So there is no need to carry water till this point. After the Attayar River and Attayar camp, there is no water source till the base camp at Athirumala. Adding fuel to fire the elevation at Attayar camp after so many ups and downs till this point, is almost same as that of entry point in spite of walking 10 kms of distance. The trek from this point is only steep climbing till base camp. To safeguard during flash floods and water, they have tied ropes across the rivers as a source to cross the river. The Kani tribe forest guides are allotted for each batch two at front and two at back. Over and above there are camps at five places in between where the tribes are stationed permanently to guide the lost solo trekker from batch or single trekker.
The grass land starts after Attayar camp and from here the balance four kms is only climbing and last portion is steep climbing with roots or trees and stones as step stones. The height is almost between a feet and two for each step. The route up to Attayar camp in comparison to this section is a cakewalk.
After reaching the hill top it is thick forest and the only consolation is a board mentioning way to Bonacaud and that conveys Athirumala camp is on the other side. A kilometre of walking further leads to the Kaval Deivam statue where three paths are merging in a T junction. One to Bonacaud, second to Agasthyakoodam and third to Athirumala base camp.
There are plenty of tall trees, varieties of butterflies and birds on the way. The screams of monkeys are in the initial phase of day one. Normally people eat their lunch at Attayar River and proceed further after a refreshing bath. As the steep climbing part is beyond this point, I postponed my lunch to Athirumala base camp. It is difficult to climb with a full stomach. I managed with dry fruits for energy and wash face with water, for freshening up.
The grasslands which are coming after Attayar camp is notorious for Elephants crossings, but I did not come across any.
On second day after bath and breakfast the journey to Agasthyakoodam peak is starting from the T junction. The T junction is around 800 metres from base camp which is plain normal gradient walking path.
After the T Junction, the real trekking starts from 1060 metres to 1868 metres. Though the distance is approximately four and half kms, it involves only steep gradient with thick forest to start with and few streams in the beginning. It is followed by rocky path up to Pongala Parai beyond which the scorching sun till the peak without any shades but only bushes and shrubs. For a brief time you get a thick forest but it will be over no sooner than you enjoy the shade. Most people who packed the breakfast enjoy it near the water source called Pongala Parai. After this no water sources.
In the mornings it is breezy walk with cloud kissed mountains and peaks. Sometimes you feel like walking through a freezer. The path after Pongala is rocky and here starts the ropes for holding. It is at seven places. To start with a small rope for 10 feet height, a rope to the side to walk between the rocks, a double rope climb for a steep climb between bushes and finally double ropes on plain solid rock face with beyond 75 degree gradient with nothing to hold except the knotted ropes.
After this comes the heaven Agasthiyar Statue in a bushy environment on a bald rock like cone ice cream and rest of the rock surface with nothing to hinder your views. The breeze or wind you call is so strong that it pushes you. From here you can see three dams Peppara Dam near Vithura, Karaiyar dam and Manimuthar dam near Ambasamudram in Tamilnadu. The base camp is clearly visible as small blue line. You can see various peaks in darker blue hue Iympodhigai Malai, Naga Podhigai Malai and various other peaks without identifying names to peaks. Iympodhigai Malai is the source of perennial Thamirabharani River flowing in Tamilnadu.
You don’t feel like returning to normal life and time spent is etched in memory for ever. As the height is more and weather will be uncertain, none is allowed beyond noon at the top. With your soul at the top you are forced to return for the base camp. Returning will be bit difficult compared to climbing. It is mainly due to two reasons, the entire jerk will be on your knees and unbearable Sun and heat as you come down quickly the entire 800 metres with no shades of whatsoever for half the distance.
Purple flowers with golden yellow dried pods, blue flowers, plait like flower and white flower are the varieties of flowers. Usual hanging bell shaped white and pink flower is also there in plenty.
Being the tribal people living in the forest from time immemorial, they are the best experts to decide as to when to start the second day trek. They start with the feel of morning clouds and mists for comfortable risk free trek. Due to this sometimes the trek starts anywhere between 7 and 8 a.m. for both those returning to base camp and waiting to climb agasthyakoodam peak. If the going is getting worse then they won’t allow to climb beyond Pongala Parai. The reason is obvious because without visibility it is impossible to hold and climb through the help of knotted ropes. A small wrong step will be fatal. Usually unless the guide at the top can see the bottom point of the rope to climb he won’t allow. They climb without even ropes due to practice. In such rare cases if there is possibility for the next day you can join or else have to return both to the Bonacaud Picket Station and Agasthyakoodam trek once again.
Life is more precious than undue risk. Further even with that risk of climbing, you cannot see anything from the peak except the Agasthiyar statue. There is no meaning in risking the climb for the sake Agasthiyar statue unless you are a religious person like Kani tribes. The real heaven lies in the clear unencumbered 360 degree view with mighty peaks with various shades of green and blue just stand below your height to enjoy.
8. Life at Athirumala Base Camp.
On the first day when you are coming from Bonacaud Picket Station, you are welcomed first by canteen cum kitchen, with Bonda and Banana fritters up to 5.00 pm. In case if you come earlier you can also have lunch here. The lunch and dinner is common without any change, boiled rice gruel, unsalted boiled moong dal, salt, papad and pickle. Whether this is the healthy option for such climate and hike or that alone is possible is left to your imagination. When it comes to breakfast, little variety is there. It is Puttu Kadalacurry, Upma and Poori sagu. As there is no facility of dairy products, you get black tea, ginger coriander coffee. The later one is really good after so many years I was drinking that happily on both days.
The basecamp is safeguarded by a trench of 8 feet deep and barbed wire fence beyond that to protect from wild animals. There is a stream passing nearby from which 24*7 water is available. For your sleeping purposes, you have two dormitory halls with sleeping mats. Both the hall are bifurcated in the beginning internally for woman and man separately. One entrance each for man and woman. This probably as an afterthought after allowing woman trekkers from 2019 by the intervention of the court. Taking two days arrival there is sufficient space of 100 each per dormitory. Behind the dormitory there are toilets and bathrooms totalling eight each. Again for woman two each are segregated.
If you cross the base camp in the back side over the trench through a makeshift bridge with wooden logs, you get a path to the stream running below and also lovely unhindered view of Agasthyakoodam. Little higher if you go, you can see the valley below beyond the stream.
The power is managed by battery and UPS. The power to the dormitory is switched between morning 5 am to 6 am and evening 6 pm to 9 pm. As the camp is fully protected by trench and barbed wire fence with the help of torch light you can go the washroom any time during night.
There is hot water facility for drinking purpose only and for bathing you have to have cold water only. Many skip bathing in the morning and on the way they bath on both the days. In the early January Pongala Parai may be having sufficient running water for second day whereas after February first week it will be just a pond. For first day there are three rivers and Attayar is the last water point where you can have your bath and to fill drinking water.
The climate in the basecamp is extremely hot during day and cold during night. The windows can’t be opened during day due to extreme hot winds and night due to cold winds. Up to mid morning and evening it is pleasant.
There is an office room where you have to surrender the trekking pass on arrival and you have to take back while returning to Bonacaud Picket Station. This pass you have to collect back. You have to give again at Bonacaud Picket Station which will be entered and after cancellation across it will be given back to you. You can keep it as a memento for having completed the trek.
9. Observation and tips.
I. The distance for the trek is exaggerated starting from 48 kms to 52 kms. Actually the distance is exactly 18.50 kms from entry point up to Agasthyakoodam peak. May be by ignorance and/or misunderstanding, the entire distance to peak is construed as distance to Athirumala Base camp. To justify this belief, the steep trekking of last three kms made them to believe that they have walked 18 kms for the first day. Actually the distance is 14 kms and the steep trek after walking from the morning and after lunch and bath makes one to believe that they are walking 18 kms. I have activated my Samsung Health app to ratify my findings. It is a total 43 kms maximum both ways and a climb from 450 metres to 1868 metres in the entire period. First day 600 metres elevation second day 800 metres elevation.
II. Similarly for the second day the distance is around 4.5 kms maximum. The entire distance is only by climbing with each step. So literally it is 18.5 kms which is perfectly mentioned in the boards on the way.
III. Having given Rs.2700 do not be under the impression like other treks that it includes everything from point to point. You are at a surprise to know that you have to buy the food items for cash only. Due to network problem no online or UPI payment possible. Around Rs.2000 is sufficient and keep that in change.
IV. If you come by public transport, again you have to walk around 2.6 kms from Bonacaud Post Office to Bonacaud Picket Station which itself is a mini hike. If you are lucky, you can hitchhike through fellow trekker’s vehicles. Sometimes even the officials give lift in their two wheeler.
V. Do not argue with Trekking guides who are well versed with the climate and topography. If they say something, it is for your security and safety, which you have to follow without demur.
VI. If you come to Bonacaud directly with the intention to stay assuming some home stay will be there, you are at loss. It is a small village without even any regular place for food.
VII. If you plan to catch the last bus, come prepared because the bus may not come sometimes. This applies perfectly to two day one night trekkers especially if they don’t have their own conveyance.
VIII. Parking is available at entry point not as you imagine like regular ones, it is road side open parking. It is not free and there is a charge for parking which they collect at the entry point only.
IX. Coming with torch light is not a must because all the mobiles are having torch light facility. Normally it will not take beyond 6 pm to reach the base camp. Having said so, sometimes unexpected rain, delay in crossing the rivers, waiting for the wild animals to cross etc. will make it a must. Anyway carry a miner’s head torch whose weight you won’t be feeling. I am sure that it is absolutely not necessary for the second day.
X. A good trekking pole will be very helpful taking at least 30% of the stress on your legs in both ways. Sometimes you have to get down or climb between a feet and two height during which time it will be helpful.
XI. Leeches I haven’t come across even a single specimen. In the initial periods of trek during January it may be there in plenty. Better carry a small packet of salt which is the only remedy to get rid of it.
XII. A good trekking shoe is must unless you are accustomed to climb barefoot. Regular sock will do, but not ankle depth ones which gives no protection against leeches.
XIII. On the second day, just keep the back pack to minimum with two water bottles, packed breakfast if any, dry fruits and a monkey cap. The chances of regular cap being blown away by the strong wind is normal. The climbing will be little cold without covering ears. There is absolutely no need for any jerkin for the second day as the getting down part will be very hot. If you are not tolerant to mist and cool breeze better carry but it will be a burden while coming back. In the initial period a poncho is necessary.
XIV. Normally they are not allowing solo trekking after the end of grassland till the base camp as it is thick forest on first day because chances of getting lost is plenty. Keep an eye on the markings and people at both in front and behind you.
XV. In three days two nights itinerary you can comfortably come to Thiruvananthapuram for a good lunch provided you leave by 7.30 am. from Athirumala base camp.
XVI. Don’t forget to collect the pass from Athirumala basecamp which is required back for closure entry at Bonacaud Picket Station.
XVII. Once you reach Vithura there are plenty of buses till evening 7.30 to Thiruvananthapuram
XVIII. While climbing don’t use your toe, instead use full foot as the muscles will get tired easily. To avoid cramps this is the first key. For any trekking, cramps is the worst nightmare and good hydration is must. Also don’t take long strides which again will make your muscles tired sooner than you think. Don’t overdo there is no competition. Enjoy and take sufficient rest in between.
XIX. Similarly while getting down use the trekking pole to your advantage. Keep the foot little sideways instead of straight. This will give sufficient balance in case of slippery surface.
XX. Agasthyakoodam is literally and physically in Tamilnadu and till mid 80s trekking was conducted from Tamilnadu side through Injikudi, Kuthiravetti, Manjolai, Singampatti Jamindar estate, after crossing the upper Koraiyar Dam through boat and through Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger reserve. Due to safety and security reasons this route was permanently closed. Now the only route available is via Kerala involving long distance
XXI. It took six hours and four hours to climb on first and second day and two and half hour and four hours to get down on second and third day.
10. Conclusion.
I agree without doubt that this is one of toughest treks but not as exaggerated at 50 plus kms at the maximum including trek to Bonacaud Picket Station it is 43 kms. Further this trek is unique in a way that it covers thick forest walk, stream and river crossings, grassland and solid rock climbing all in one in that order. It is advisable to plan your trip well in advance after getting the trekking pass in your hand. Also a regular walk of minimum 8 to 10 kms at a stretch every day for a month before trekking will make this trek a cakewalk. Remember plain walk is totally different in actual treks with steep gradient and rocky surfaces. Take sufficient rest in between and hydrate then and there. Go one day in advance with your preference of stay either at Thiruvananthapuram or Vithura. This will give a fresh morning start than a stressful journey and arriving at Bonacaud Picket station on the very next day.
According to me the toughest trek is Velliangiri Hills near Coimbatore which is from 520 metres to 1850 metres on a single day. The similarity is both are in Western Ghats, almost similar trekking path and open only for limited period. Unlike Agasthyakoodam, there are no sources of water except for two places in the entire trek at Velliangiri. Further Velliangiri is climbing all the seven hills from start to finish and it is opened for 24*7 till closure. To rub salt in the wound, after 6th hill you have to get down and climb again above the height of 6th hill to the peak at 7th hill in Velliangiri trek.
For any other information you are free to message me in the comments which I will surely respond.
The products sold by the Kani Tribes at the Entry point for sale.
OMG. A tough claimb. That too for you at that age, unbelievable. Place is really too good. Photos are breath taking. Feel like going. But not possible for me. Thanks for your detailed description of each and every step that is required for a climber. God bless you.
ReplyDeleteThe intention of writing is both as a guide who wishes to go and as virtual tour who can't afford due to various genuine reasons. Thanks
ReplyDeleteCompletely enjoyed reading this.Very beautiful n detailed description. Photos taken have been ordered which explains the sequence (superb). Well planned expedition and explained in a way that helps a trekker with valuable tips. Understanding the place and kind of precautions (documents) to be taken, while embarking on such missions well explained (hats off). Thanks for letting people like me know such places.
ReplyDelete"Travel makes one modest, you see what a tiny place you occupy in the world"---Gustave Flaubert
Thanks for encouraging words to keep me going further treks like this
Delete